My bathroom/darkroom

February 3rd, 2010
1 comment

Peo­ple some­times won­der how I make wet dark­room prints in my tiny, zero bed­room apart­ment. So, I thought I’d take a few sim­ple snaps and show you how it’s done. It’s really pretty sim­ple, and works quite well. So, imag­ine all of this in the dark, with only a dim red safe­light to pro­vide illumination.

This is the “dry” side of the darkroom:

Darkroom, dry side

That’s a used Saunders/LPL C6600 con­denser enlarger on my cof­fee table that I move into the bath­room. It’s a pretty decent begin­ner to novice enlarger and does the trick for me. When I enlarge 6x6 neg­a­tives — which is about 99% of the time — I use a Meopta Anaret S 80mm lens. It’s pretty decent too. On the rare occa­sion I enlarge a 35mm neg­a­tive I use an LPL 50mm lens that I think came with the enlarger. I also have a nice set of Ilford multi­grade fil­ters that go inside the head of the enlarger. They con­trol con­trast on multi­grade paper. On the base­board of the enlarger is my nice four-blade Saun­ders easel. It makes mak­ing nice crisp edges a snap.

To the right of the enlarger is a used Gralab 505 dig­i­tal timer. Both the enlarger and red safe­light (on the floor, out­side the frame here) are plugged into the timer. There is also a foot switch to con­trol it. The timer is tog­gled so that when the enlarger is off, the safe­light is on and vice-versa. It han­dles time in tenths of a sec­ond. Hav­ing a dig­i­tal timer really makes print mak­ing go a lot smoother.

To the left of the enlarger is a stack of dif­fer­ent sized paper in their boxes. I mostly use resin coated (RC) paper as it’s just so much more con­ve­nient for my process. I do have a few pack­ets of fibre-based paper, but I don’t use it too often. I also put the lit­tle dust blower and anti-static cloth on the top. I also have a few stiff pieces of paper and card­board for mak­ing test strips with. There is also a few pieces with holes cut in them in case I need or want to burn and dodge.

Once a piece of paper is exposed, it needs to be run through a few chem­i­cal baths. This is the “wet” side of the dark­room, but it’s only really half:

Darkroom, wet side

The red tray is devel­oper. In this case — and almost always — it is Kodak Dek­tol diluted 1+2. Dek­tol is a good, all-purpose neu­tral to cold-tone devel­oper that devel­ops an image in two min­utes. That’s what I use any­way. It’s cheap to buy and easy to mix. The gray tray placed on the toi­let is the stop bath, where the print goes after the devel­oper. Stop bath is needed to instantly stop the devel­op­ment process. It gives a slightly higher level of con­sis­tency from print to print and helps to extend the life of the fixer. After 30 sec­onds in the stop bath, the print goes into the fixer. The fixer is in the white tray on the van­ity. I use Ilford Rapid Fixer as it does its job in 30 sec­onds, is easy to find and mix.

After the print comes out of the fixer, it’s safe to turn the lights on. I take the print into the kitchen and wash it for a few min­utes in the steel sink. After that, I put it through a 1+20 sele­nium toner bath for four min­utes. You have to be very care­ful with this as sele­nium isn’t the most healthy thing to be sub­jected to. I use gloves and ven­ti­la­tion. I should also prob­a­bly be wear­ing safety gog­gles, but like I said I am crazy care­ful with all of this stuff. After the toner, the print gets washed again, then hung to dry. In case you’re won­der­ing, I tone in sele­nium not for a change in colour — which it does at lower dilu­tions — I do it because it tends to cre­ate nice deep blacks and sele­nium is a more sta­ble metal than sil­ver, so it’ll last longer. Some say it’ll last a cou­ple of hun­dred years in decent conditions.

Print, hung to dry

And there it is, a print (of this) hang­ing to dry. The test strip is on the right. From that I deter­mined the final print expo­sure to be twelve sec­onds at f11. White whites, black blacks and a full range of mid­tones in between. It really makes print­mak­ing a whole lot eas­ier when the in-camera expo­sure is spot on. It pays to take your time when expos­ing the film cor­rectly in-camera. A prop­erly exposed neg­a­tive can be made into a beau­ti­ful, rich print with as lit­tle dark­room work as pos­si­ble. And when you have a small, tem­po­rary dark­room like mine, that’s a huge plus.

It’s amaz­ing to think that prints made in my lit­tle bath­room are hung on walls from coast to coast.

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Comments (1)

  • Very inter­est­ing. I like the pic­ture. I pre­sume it is mine.
    Thanks Chris

    Reply to this comment by bar­bara

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